Joanna Simon, Wine of the Week, July 2026: "Even if you think you don’t need another Chardonnay, trust me, you need Domaine Frédéric Lambert Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2024. It’s different and it’s lovely. It comes from the Jura, the small, chilly, hilly region in the east of France between Burgundy and Switzerland, and it’s made and aged in a traditional way, spending nine months in oak barrels under a veil (or voile) of flor yeast. That doesn’t mean it tastes old-fashioned or like sherry or the Jura’s own long-lived sherry-like vin jaune. It’s more like a good white Burgundy, but really it’s in a pale, bright world of its own, with layers of honey, walnut, buttered toast, tangy fresh lemon and salty preserved lemon wrapped in a rich, smooth texture and signed off with lingering citrus zing."